The Rebuild (good, bad, ugly)

Here's Luna, wrapped and ready to roll. She looks different with the shrink wrap, especially with the line of her cabin top extended back by a support in the cockpit. She's certainly still got lovely lines!

One last look at Luna, ready for the road, in her now former home.

My friend Jim Newell helped out yet again by pulling the two boats around for me (and he's the one buying our house in Portuguese Cove, also!)

Luna is ready to come out into the air in preparation for her move to Chester.

Luna's moving with us to Chester, so she's got to come out, despite not being anywhere near finished. This is the first time since the shed was covered that the doors have been open - and the view is quite impressive!

Cabin top ready for the next fairing

Shockingly warm for early April in coastal Nova Scotia!

Cockpit floor nonskid sanded smooth

Where the mixing elbow will be once I get the rest of the exhaust manufactured...

Another shot of the motor with the heat exchanger gone and some exhaust parts sitting on top of it.

Removed the heat exchanger and will mount it off-engine to free up space for the exhaust, which will need to fit behind the engine inside the engine cover (settee).

Looking down on the back of the cockpit and the transom.

Back of the cockpit.

The transom. Kind of covered in cobwebs and dust at the moment. I picture it since I'm having some odd ideas about a modification I might want to make - but it may be too silly to contemplate.

I was wandering around with the camera, and I do like the boat's rudder, so I took a picture. One thing that's interesting - the original rudder design ended at the bottom of the skeg, but when racing the boats hard it sometimes wasn't enough purchase, so a few owners extended the rudder by about 4-5" for more purchase. While it'll be good for control, it isn't so good for securing and protecting the rudder with the skeg... I'll be putting a line slide over the gap between the bottom of the skeg and the rudder to keep lines out of there.

Galley sink through hull - can you tell?

Bronze flush-mounted through hull for cockpit drain.

Here's the head sink discharge/head intake through hull removed. Here (about 1-1/2' down from the waterline) the hull is still over 1/2" thick. Again, reassuring. Not necessarily light and speedy - but reassuring!

Not sure if you can tell - but the hull is about 1" thick here. It's the stub keel that gives the boat a bit of a bilge and to which the lead keel is bolted, so it's good that it's thick, it needs to be strong - but an inch is pleasing overkill. Nice!

If I had known more about through hulls before taking them out I would have known they were Marelon and might not have bothered - but it won't hurt to redo them, either.

The two through hulls I removed (engine intake and head). They look fine, but I think for the cost of replacement that I'll replace them. I don't know if Marelon has a finite lifespan or not, but they're cheap, and it seems like good insurance. I like that they're tapered and mounted flush to the hull - gives a large area for sealant.

Bronze through hull for galley sink, I won't take this one out, it's covered on the outside by one of the trailer pads. Of course I'll have to move the pad when I paint the bottom, but for now it can stay. Looks good from this side, at least...

There was once a through hull here, and will be again. I thought they were nylon, but it turns out they were marelon, so I have to decide whether to put the ones I took out back, or replace with identical new ones. They're all chamfered from the outside, mounted flush, so there is good reason to stick with the existing locations and styles.

One of the three 1/2" marelon ball valves on board (engine cooling intake, galley sink discharge, head sink discharge/head water intake). I see no reason not to reuse them.

Believe it or not there is a cover to go over this that mates with the rest of the settee (in the top of the image) - not a lot of room to spare!

Says something about how messy it was down below when I tell you that this photo was to show how much better it was now!

Haven't decided what to do about the manual bilge pump, either. It's a good pump, and appears to be in good shape - it's just that the cover that seals the handle from the cockpit has failed, and I've yet to find another one. That and it really blocks the opening to the locker. Might be better to mount it to the back wall of the cockpit somehow, since the doesn't have an opening from above. We'll see. The hoses below are vents that go into the bilge - one of them is in good shape, and may stay - the other is not, and is going.

Clearing out the port cockpit locker. Despite the rats nest appearance, this is actually considerably better than it was when I started. The remaining wiring will go (with the possible exception of the wiring for the fuel pump, which is just out of site behind the outcrop of 'glass), and I haven't decided about that vent hose. While diesel engines don't require a blower - it might be nice to have a way to suck the thick air out of the bilge once in awhile (and assuming that the blower isn't of the sparking variety and I continue to use propane, it will help to reduce the risk of blowing myself to kingdom come).

More removed non-skid. Just the two cockpit locker lids and the cockpit floor remaining with non-skid - and a whole lot of other prep!

Previously non-skid, now as smooth as a - well, as smooth as 40 grit paper can make fiberglass, at any rate.